Archive for August 2020Alternator Facts (Failing Alternator)Posted September 27, 2020 12:56 PMIf you notice that your headlights are flickering at night, that's something to pay attention to. While there could be many different things that could cause that problem, one possibility is your vehicle's alternator. The alternator takes mechanical energy from the engine and turns it into electricity, in essence a generator. The current it makes charges the battery and supplies power to the vehicle's electrical systems. An alternator is made up of several different parts: a pulley, magnets, coil wires, brushes and a voltage regulator. While your vehicle is running, these parts get a good workout and, after time, they begin to wear out. Other symptoms of a failing alternator include your vehicle's lights dimming, the power windows going up and down more slowly than they used to, your power seats not moving quite as fast as before. Another sign of a worn out alternator is engine stalling. Vehicles with fuel injection require a certain amount of power, and when an alternator is going bad, your engine could stall because the alternator isn't cranking out enough of it. An alternator on its last legs can also fail to charge your battery properly. Sometimes your battery isn't getting enough charge from the alternator and will go dead. It also can be the opposite problem. The battery is getting too much power and will cause the battery to get hot. Your vehicle may give you a clue on the instrument panel. If you see any of these warning lights, take note: Check Engine, ALT, CHARGE or one that looks like a picture of a battery. If that light is on, it's time to have your service facility give it a look. As mentioned earlier, there are other components of your vehicle's electrical system that can fail, such as a worn out serpentine belt or a malfunctioning voltage regulator. A reputable service facility has diagnostic tools to pinpoint the causes of your problems. And when your issues are fixed, your electrical system will be back to its hard-working self. You'll get a real charge out of it! Auto Authority LLC A Sticky Brake Situation (Parking Brake Service and Maintenance)Posted September 20, 2020 2:01 AMWe've all been there. You park your vehicle on a steeper than usual hill and worry about it rolling down while you're running your errands. So you decide you'll use the parking brake. When you get back, you release the parking brake, hit the ignition, put it in gear and—uh, oh—you can feel the parking brake is still on. It's stuck. What do you do now? Welcome to the world of infrequently-used parking brakes. Yes, they do stick for several reasons. It's common for components to corrode and get locked up. Sometimes if you have applied it extra hard, it can jam. Could be a rusty cable, could be a spring that doesn't return the brake to its disengaged position. Some pieces just break when they're stressed for the first time in a while. A caliper or the pivot arm it's on can also stick. There are a few things you can try to unstick it. Carefully rock your vehicle by putting it first in drive and then reverse. You have to be careful doing that, though, because sometimes you can damage the transmission. You can try working the parking brake control a few times to see if that will loosen the corrosion. If you can't unstick it, you can try driving slowly a short distance to a repair facility near you. Sometimes it won't cause damage to the brakes but it depends on how tightly the parking brake was applied and what was stuck. You may also have to have your vehicle towed to a repair facility. In any case, once you've seen these symptoms, have your vehicle brakes looked at by a professional who can fix the root of the problem. Better yet, don't let your vehicle get in this condition; regular maintenance and inspections by a trained technician should prevent you from getting in a jam somewhere thanks to a stuck parking brake. You could use a "brake" like that. Auto Authority LLC Losing Your Spark (Spark Plug Replacement)Posted September 13, 2020 9:44 AMWhen's the last time you thought about spark plugs? You probably don't remember. That's because spark plugs usually last a long time and don't need much attention. But they don't last forever, and when they start going bad, they'll send you a few clues.
There are many things that can cause those symptoms, so it's wise to head on over to your vehicle repair facility to have them look over your vehicle. But the problem could be your spark plugs. They do wear out, not producing a strong enough spark to ignite your fuel the way they're designed to. A closely related problem is failing spark plug wires, and a technician will test for both possibilities… and more. Your vehicle's manufacturer recommends changing wires and/or plugs at certain intervals. Spark plugs are made out of different materials and some last far longer than others. Ask your service advisor to let you know when yours should be changed. Badly misfiring plugs can cause expensive damage to a vehicle's catalytic converter, so it's best to take care of them before that happens. Replacing your spark plugs and/or wires is money well spent to have your vehicle running smoothly, dependably and efficiently. Auto Authority LLC Gas Smell! (What Causes Gasoline Odors)Posted September 6, 2020 12:33 PMIf you've ever walked into your garage and noticed it smelled like gasoline, pay attention. Gasoline can be dangerous, both from the health problems fumes can cause and the fire danger gasoline presents. There are many things that can cause a vehicle to give off a gasoline odor. One of the easiest to track down is the gas cap. It could be missing or it doesn't seal well any more (they do wear out). That can also cause the Check Engine light to light up, so those are clues to tell your service advisor when you take it in for diagnosis. Another thing that can cause the Check Engine light to come on and produce a gasoline smell is the fuel filler neck. It's the part that goes from the place you put your fuel in to the gas tank. Over time, these can wear out and fail (they're made out of rubber or metal). They can leak gasoline, too. It's always a good idea to check the garage floor for any gasoline puddles. Note the location of the puddle in relation to the vehicle. If it's near the back, that's possibly the fuel filler neck or the gas tank leaking. In the middle of the vehicle? May be fuel lines. Near the front? Could be fuel injectors (or carburetor if you have one) or fuel pump. There are other causes of gas odors, and you need an expert to figure out the source soon. Gasoline leaks are nothing to play around with. Gasoline is flammable, potentially explosive and its fumes can damage your lungs. A trained technician can pinpoint the cause and get your garage back to smelling like a normal garage again. Auto Authority LLC See the Light (Automatic High Beam Dimmers)Posted August 30, 2020 12:01 PMIt's happened to all of us. We're driving down a highway at night and over a crest appears a car with its high beams blazing. You are momentarily blinded, hoping the other driver will switch them to their low beam setting and restore your vision. Not only do we not appreciate being blinded, face it; we don’t want to be that other driver, either. You know, the one who forgets to turn down their high beams. Why do we want high beams in the first place? They can improve safety when used correctly, giving drivers more reaction time since they can see farther down the road. But research has found many drivers either don't use them or, when they do, they frequently forget to switch to low beams. Enter the automatic high-beam dimmer. The quest for the perfect one began back in the 1950s, General Motors invented something it called the "Autronic Eye." It was a phototube which sat on the dashboard and turned down your beams when it saw other headlights. While touted as being the biggest advance in night driving safety in 30 years, it didn't work all that well. But as technology got more advanced, systems improved. Today's automatic high beam dimmers usually have a camera in the rear view mirror (pointing forward). When the camera sees lights, software in the system's computer attempts to determine the source of the light, whether it is an oncoming vehicle, taillights, ambient city lights, street lights or the reflection off of a street sign. It then adjusts the headlights to operate high beams if appropriate or a less-blinding mode if they’re not. Some automakers are striving to make their headlight systems smarter and safer by developing lamps that can avoid blinding oncoming drivers by means other than simply dimming them. One idea? Splitting the beams so they will block just the portion that shines into the eyes of oncoming drivers. It's a long way from the Autronic Eye. Auto Authority LLC Don't Start with That (Bad Starter Motor)Posted August 23, 2020 9:37 AMWe've all heard that expression, "That's a non starter." When it comes to your vehicle, that's not music to a driver's ears. That sickening sound when you start the ignition and instead of hearing the engine crank, you hear it slowly turn over and your dash lights go dim. There can be many reasons a vehicle won't start, so here's a little history of how the starter came to be an important component of modern vehicles. You have to move the engine's components to start it. The first cars had a crank that the driver would insert into the front, then start turning things over by hand. When the engine started, you had to release that crank immediately or risk a broken arm. Yes, it happened many times. So, they came up with a better idea: an electric starter, which was a big advance in automotive technology. With this system, an electric motor rotated a series of gears that turned the gasoline engine's crankshaft so its pistons and parts moved and the engine drew in air. While this happened, electricity went to the spark plugs and fuel headed to the cylinders. When the gasoline engine caught, the starter quickly disengaged. Hey, no more broken arms! Modern systems use the same principle, so when your vehicle won't start, here are a few things to look out for that might point to the starter. If the engine turns over s-l-o-w-l-y, it may mean the electric starter motor may just be wearing out and doesn't have enough cranking power. Bushings, brushes, wire windings and a special switch called a commutator may be going bad. If when you engage the ignition you hear a faint click, that could be a symptom one or more of the starter's components have failed. If you hear a loud click, it could mean that an electrical switch called a solenoid may not be switching the motor on. If you hear your engine start to turn over but then it stops and is followed by a grinding sound, some gears may not be meshing the way they should. There may be many more causes (bad alternator, relay, battery, engine, key fob), so this is when it's time to turn it over to your service facility. Sometimes they can send out their own tow truck or recommend a reputable towing company. But it's best not to let it get to this point. Starter problems often give you advance warning that there is a problem with "almost" not starting or "almost" not turning over. So when you see that very first sign, "start" on over to talk this one over with your service advisor. The opposite of a "non-starter" is a starter, and that is music to anyone's ears. Auto Authority LLC The Light Nobody Wants to See (Check Engine Light)Posted August 16, 2020 11:45 AMYou've probably had your Check Engine Light go on. Then it goes off and you figure, hey, whatever the problem was, it's gone now and I don't have to worry about it. Well, the problem may have gone away and it may not have. Your vehicle likely has one of these warning lights on the instrument panel: an amber light that looks like an engine or reads "Check Engine" or "Service Vehicle Soon." If that light comes on and stays on, it usually means there's something amiss but not urgently in need of service. (Now if it's blinking, that's another story that we'll deal with in a minute.) Sometimes when it comes on and stays steadily lit, the problem will go away and the light will go out. Sometimes it will stay on until you get the problem fixed. Either way, the engine's computer will store a code that can provide clues to what's not working—or wasn't working—the way it's supposed to. If you are just dying to know what that code is, you can buy a little code reader or take your vehicle to an auto parts store and they'll read it. Problem is, the code offers so many options that unless you are a trained technician, you probably won't have a clue what those codes mean. So if you want to be sure, take it to your vehicle repair facility and have them check it. Technicians are trained to decipher the codes and, using their experience and other diagnostic equipment, can get to the root of the problem and fix it. As we mentioned before, if that Check Engine light comes on and is blinking, it means a more serious engine malfunction that can damage expensive components such as the catalytic converter and even the engine itself. It's important to have that checked by a professional as soon as possible. Auto Authority LLC A Honking Big Jam (Stuck Horn)Posted August 9, 2020 12:29 PMAt one time or another, most drivers honk their horn at someone who might be texting at a stoplight or not paying attention when they're driving. But what happens when you tap on your horn and all of a sudden it won't quit? Everyone's looking at you like you're an angry jerk and all you want to do is turn it off! It helps to know the basics of what's happening when you honk your horn. There's a switch in the steering wheel, of course, and when you press on it, it sends power to a relay which then energizes the horn. Bingo. Sound. When the horn sticks on, one of these parts or the wiring has developed a problem. With the ear-splitting noise inside your cabin, it may be hard to keep your cool, but do your best to stay calm. Try pushing the horn several times; it may un-stick the switch if you're lucky. If not, there are a couple of things you can try. First, if you can, pull your vehicle off the road and into a spot where you're not disrupting traffic. If you feel comfortable rummaging around in your vehicle's fuse box, you might be able to pull the fuse that manages the circuit for your horn system. A hint: the fuse boxes sometimes have a label inside showing which fuse goes to which part of the vehicle. Find the fuse that goes to the horn and pull it out (sometimes there's a fuse-pulling tool inside the fuse box). But many people don't feel like tackling that. Yes, you can drive over to a service facility with the horn blaring (not the best idea). Or call your service facility and see if they might be able to send someone over to where you are so they can shut off the horn. At the shop, a technician can check wiring, switches, relays and other components to find out what's wrong. This is something that should be left to a professional for a couple of reasons. First, repairs around the steering wheel can involve airbags. Second, some horn components may be part of a vehicle's alarm system. The bad news is that your horn may not give you any warning before it starts blaring uncontrollably. But the good news is that a horn doesn't malfunction all that often, and now you have a plan if it does. Auto Authority LLC Taking the Heat (Heater Hose Maintenance/Repair)Posted August 2, 2020 7:11 AMIf you have an internal combustion vehicle, you know it has a lot of hoses that carry various fluids. And if you have a heater in your vehicle, you'll have heater hoses. A heater hose connects to and from the engine so some coolant can be circulated through a little radiator called a heater core. In cold weather, that heater core acts as a heat exchanger to heat up your cabin. Even in the hot weather, the heater hoses can prove problematic. That's because they may remain pressurized even though you're not running your heater. Heater hoses are made out of tough materials since they must handle heat and pressure. But even the durable rubber, plastic and metal they are made out of can crack or leak from years of use. That means coolant can be sprayed out into the engine compartment or leak onto a driveway or garage floor. You may be able to see a puddle of coolant under your vehicle or perhaps smell the odor of the coolant under the hood. Some say it has a sweet smell. Another sign coolant may be leaking out of the heater hoses is your engine may be running hotter. You'll be able to tell by watching the heat gauge on your dash. Let's say your heat gauge usually points just slightly below halfway between the C and H (Cold and Hot) of the heat gauge. But now it is just slightly above. That's enough to tell you that the coolant temperature has gone up a little, a possible sign of trouble. This is a good time to swing by your service facility and have them take a look. If they catch the leak when it's small, it's a relatively simple matter of draining the coolant, replacing the hoses and replacing the coolant. Sometimes, though, a heater hose can suddenly burst and a lot of coolant can leak out quickly. That can, in turn, cause your engine to start to overheat. In that case, you may see your vehicle's temperature gauge shoot up pretty quickly. Then it's best to pull over and have your car towed to a repair facility since driving with no coolant can cause severe engine damage. Preventative maintenance is your best insurance against heater hose problems. A technician will periodically check for any signs of cracks or leaks. You should expect to replace a heater hose at least once during the time you own your vehicle. Auto Authority LLC Don't Be Shocked (Shock Absorbers)Posted July 29, 2020 6:36 AMIf you've ever ridden down a rough road on your bicycle, you know how hard a ride it can be. Yet drive down the same road in your car, truck or SUV and it miraculously will smooth out the ride. That's because it is equipped with shock absorbers. They are built to dampen impacts from road irregularities. But after taking hundreds of hits from potholes, railroad tracks and curbs, your shock absorbers can wear out. Besides the rough ride that can cause, there are other ways your vehicle's performance can be affected. When it comes to braking for example, you may take a longer distance to stop. That's because shocks help keep your tires in contact with the surface of the road. If the shocks aren't working properly, the tires won't make contact like they should. So when you slam on the brakes, your vehicle will take longer to stop. Consider what worn out shocks are doing to your tires. Since the bumps aren't being dampened as much, your tires can bounce up and down more. That can produce a problem of uneven wear called cupping. And when you start out from a stop, your vehicle may not have the traction it should since the shocks aren't keeping them down on the road as you accelerate. If you have front wheel drive, you may lose some steering control on acceleration. Obviously, many of these things involve safety concerns. Pay attention to any deterioration in your vehicle's ride quality. If your vehicle is starting to bounce up and down and its ride feels bumpier than before, head on over to your vehicle service facility and get your suspension checked out. Do the same if steering response isn't as good as it used to be. Notice that your vehicle nose dives when you brake? Are your tires wearing in an unusual manner? All are signs that your shocks may be on their last legs. If the last time you replaced your shocks was 50,000 miles/80,000 kilometers ago, a technician should evaluate them. Don't be "shocked" if it's time for new ones.
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